Tag: Makeup

Theater makeup is heavier, more pigmented makeup that keeps an actor’s face readable under strong stage lights and from the back row. The basic steps are: clean the skin, highlight and contour, apply a foundation one or two shades darker than usual, add blush, define the eyes and lips, then set everything with powder. Here is how I’d break it down.

Stage makeup has to be precise, because the character must look believable. Research helps make sure the look fits the period, setting and mood of the play, so get to know the script. Good communication between the cast, set designer, hair stylist and makeup artist makes the whole process easier for everyone, especially in the busy last days before opening night when costume fittings and rehearsals pile up.

Before you apply theater makeup

Find out what lighting the production will use. Coloured lights, yellow or red, change how makeup reads. On tour this changes from venue to venue, one of the lessons in my post on life on tour. Also know the distance between the stage and the audience. Makeup has to work from every seat, so features need to be defined so they don’t look flat or washed out by the lights. A makeup artist may sketch a plan of the final look first. You won’t need that for a kindergarten play.

Tools for theater makeup

Because the actor is on stage, under bright lights and seen from a distance, the right tools matter. Theater makeup is heavier and more pigmented than everyday makeup, so I recommend:

• Synthetic brushes, which are easy to clean and handle oil-based products well
• A natural hair brush if you use powder blush
• Velour powder puffs and sponges
• False eyelashes to put focus on the eyes
• Several brush sizes: a big blush brush, two medium eye shadow brushes, a contour brush and a lip brush

How to apply theater makeup, step by step

1. Cleanse and moisturize. Always start with a fresh canvas. Makeup looks and lasts better on skin free of dirt, dead skin and excess oil.
2. Highlight and contour. Highlight the areas that stand out, like the cheekbones, chin, forehead and T-zone, with a lighter foundation and white highlighter. Use a darker foundation under the cheekbones and at the temples to add shape and character.
3. Apply foundation one or two shades darker than usual. Otherwise the lights flatten and fade the face. Blend well so no lines show under the lights, then set with translucent powder.
4. Add blush. Powder blush blends easily and you can build the colour gradually, so the actor doesn’t end up looking like a doll.
5. Match the body. If the costume shows arms, shoulders or legs, use body foundation to match them to the face. A damp sponge spreads it evenly without streaks.
6. Exaggerate the eyes. In theater the eyes and mouth carry the emotion, so give them more colour than the rest of the face. Just don’t end up looking like a raccoon: avoid heavy black liner under the eye and use a soft brown, smudged, if you need more emphasis. You can make the top line bolder if the role allows.
7. Curl the lashes and add mascara one coat at a time, letting each coat dry. Curling opens up the eyes.
8. Line and fill the lips. Use a liner that matches the lipstick, and a lipstick a bit darker or brighter than you’d normally wear so the lips read from far. Follow the natural lip line and apply with a lip brush.
9. Set it. Finish by dusting translucent powder where the makeup needs to stay put.

Special effects: aging, scars and bruises

A character may need to look older or younger, or have scars, cuts, bruises or a balding head. These effects take time and special materials, so plan them ahead and set aside time to research and practise. Aging is a big one for actors. When I played Kublai Khan, a father and an emperor way older than me, I had to look the part, and I did a lot of homework on the man himself for my Kublai Khan facts post. On the other side, in my review of August: Osage County by Repertory Philippines I noticed an actor playing a man of about 60 who was not aged, which I found a little weird.

Makeup is only one part of the craft. For more, read my tips on how to be a good actor and how to have a career in musical theater.

Theater makeup FAQ

Why do stage actors wear so much makeup?

Strong stage lights flatten and wash out the face, and the audience sits far away. Heavier, more defined makeup keeps the actor’s features and expressions readable.

What foundation shade should I use for the stage?

Usually one or two shades darker than your everyday foundation, blended well and set with translucent powder.

What brushes do I need for theater makeup?

Synthetic brushes for heavy or oil-based products, a natural hair brush for powder blush, plus a contour brush, eye shadow brushes and a lip brush.

How do you make an actor look older on stage?

Plan it ahead. Aging uses contour and highlight to suggest lines and hollows, often with special materials, and it needs practice time before the show.